A sprawling country estate on the heights of Bidarray and Itxassou is home to a 17C farmstead and outhouses. A panoramic terrace commands a jaw-dropping view over grandiose rolling countryside. Chef John Argaud, who trained with the best in the Basque Country (the Ibarboure brothers in Ithurria), as well as at Le Meurice Alain Ducasse in Paris, shines the spotlight on outstanding local produce. The food is crisp, legible and dotted with creativity; some ingredients are cooked over embers or finished on a hot stone for an added distinctive edge. An example: morels stuffed with sweetbread and duck hearts. From Monday to Wednesday, the repertory is more bistronomic and simpler, but just as appetising as that available later in the week.