The restaurant-studded W. Randolph corridor recently welcomed the gleaming Gioia. Set amid a host of new developments, it is in full swing, thanks to its authentically Italian accents and contemporary mien—elegant Venetian stucco walls and a blast of blue via a piece of art. The black marble bar encourages nursing—a negroni, maybe?The menu is a veritable resume of Chef Federico Comacchio's years of experience in Italian kitchens. A simple salad (croccante) arrives perfectly dressed with vincotto and stracciatella; while veal tortellini in a brown butter-and-sage sauce explodes with flavor. Hearty types won't be able to resist the maialetto, which includes pork belly and baby back ribs, with roasted potatoes. It's very straightforward and very enjoyable.