The two chefs previously worked in the kitchens of a prestigious hotel, and their skills are unquestionable – which is why it's so hard to get a table here. Try the "premium trio", which used to be reserved for state banquets: buttery foie gras, squab with crispy skin and the tanginess of plum, and springy goose webs and wings in white marinade. Meat is barbecued daily in limited servings. Go with a group to enjoy the generous portions.