Fusa means ‘linen’ or ‘hemp cloth’, which is used in Shinto rituals to symbolise cleanliness. The word was chosen for the restaurant’s name because, like Japanese cuisine, it developed from an origin as a sacred offering, and indeed the shop curtain hanging at the shop’s entrance is woven of pure linen. As part of his daily duties, the owner-chef prays at Shimogoryo Shrine and draws pure votive water from there. The proprietress, a qualified sommelier, suggests pairings of sake and wine.