To prioritise the fun of choosing at this counter-based kappo, the owner-chef focuses on à la carte dishes. Items featuring hamo and sabazushi are classic Kyoto mainstays. But the dishes that combine Japanese and Chinese gastronomy are also intriguing; it turns out that the owner-chef’s father was a Chinese chef. Offerings include oysters drizzled in heated scallion oil and large shrimp dressed in mayonnaise. The connection between father and son lends the cuisine its distinctive character.