On Place des Vosges, said to be one of Europe’s most beautiful squares, this iconic restaurant sports antique mirrors, a huge tapestry, black and white marble flooring and striking contemporary wall panels lit by red LEDs. Following on from Bernard Pacaud, a meticulous artisan who laboured here for so many years and who trained many a chef, Japanese-born Shintaro Awa humbly upholds the spirit of the establishment. Diehard fans happily dig into house signatures, of the likes of langoustine in puff pastry with sesame seeds and curry sauce; roasted Bresse chicken; braised calf’s sweetbreads à la financière, unless they opt for one of the chef’s own creations which bear the same hallmark of premium produce.