In a neighbourhood swarming with Chinese eateries, this establishment stands out from the crowd by courtesy of a bistronomic purebred Gallic lineup and minimalist Scandinavian-style loft interior. The high-flying culinary score boasts quality ingredients and bang-on cooking and seasoning: ravioles of Ossau-Iraty cheese, smoked pimiento sauce, dusting of chorizo, poached rhubarb and roquette oil, or loin of croaker with asparagus, miso and capers in a gutsy red wine sauce…