Credit to chef-owner Erik Bruner-Yang and his team for keeping it fresh, as it were. On ever-changing H Street, this long-favored restaurant at first looks like a clothing store with its glittering display cases lined with chic merch. More impressive, though, is what’s on the menu: A diverse, ambitious, and consistently satisfying roster of dishes inspired by flavors from across Asia. Everything here is designed to share, starting with the sourdough scallion pancake; or the chicken soup dumplings with peanut chili vinaigrette. What’s next? That should be the crispy fried chicken drizzled with five-spice caramel. There are no rules, no borders, in this house, and diners wouldn’t want it any other way.