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Chef Otto Phan’s latest omakase is something of a gem. Located next door to his flagship counter, which costs exponentially more, this 10-seat experience serves only nigiri and offers both style and substance. The cost is reasonable when you consider the expense of twice-weekly shipments from Japan and the length of the meal. Cut large, scored deep, sauced readily, and then pressed onto generous mounds of rice, the fish make for hearty pieces. Fun quirks include avocado wrapped inside a tuna handroll or an entire Japanese scallop set on an equally-large bed of rice. To finish, the tamago is a silky sensation. The chic space and kindly-priced beverage list add to the swagger of a counter that cares about quality but never takes itself too seriously.