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This attractive restaurant offers three tasting menus featuring traditional and more creative dishes, in which influences from Piedmont, Liguria and Campania (the chef’s native region) combine, with truffles taking centre stage in autumn and home-grown vegetables in spring. Culinary highlights include Piedmontese-style Fassona beef tartare (the beef is sourced from the La Granda consortium) and cream ice-cream whipped in a 1982 Carpigiani machine served with a selection of sweet delicacies. The decision to offer wine uniquely from Champagne and Piedmont is somewhat unusual but works well – we recommend the house Barbera del Monferrato, preferably one that has been laid down for a few years.