This venerable institution (est. 1789) is far from nostalgic as its refurbished, stylish dining room, dotted in contemporary details, and the conservatory leading out onto a patio, illustrate. The food, also free of culinary cobwebs, is fiendishly tailored to modern tastebuds: crispy scallops with wild prawns, cauliflower and orange vinaigrette; squab pigeon, the breast lightly roasted, the thigh confit in fleischnacka… Slick professional service and knockout wine cellar.