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Mathis Jonquet, the new chef at this family-run establishment, brings a dash of minimalism to the table, while upholding tradition: his classic cuisine is strewn with nods to Southwest France and washed down with a fine Bordeaux (600 labels). The menu is a celebration of fresh and skilfully prepared seasonal produce: black radish cannelloni filled with crab, shellfish mayonnaise, celeriac with dulse seaweed and samphire, not to mention lamprey à la bordelaise and braised red mullet or Grand Marnier soufflé – all signature dishes of chef Claude Darroze. To be savoured either in the modern interior or, in the summer months, on the pleasant terrace sheltered by plane trees. For those looking to extend their stay beyond dinner, there are some pretty guestrooms available.