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Chef Jonathan Yao is on a mission, deftly drawing on his Taiwanese background to deliver inspired, bold dishes. Far from his first location, the Row DTLA dining room is a cool enclave of polished concrete, steel, plate glass and light wood furnishings, along with an open kitchen that features prominently. It is a beautiful stage for his tasting menu, which is not shy about seasoning. Fish maw with Dungeness crab, custard and caviar comes with a crab shell-infused red vinegar for maximum impact. Spice-crusted duck breast taps into nostalgia with a fluffy bao bun. A recent riff on pig ears with summer tomatoes buzzed with a fiery chili oil. To boot, the cocktail program features impressively crafted alcoholic and spirit-free creations.