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With embers glowing, flames snapping and smoke billowing, two ferocious ovens serve as the twin hearts and hearths of this Glassell Park hot spot. Much of the Southern-inspired menu must pass through them — oysters, cornbread, rib eyes and pork chops. Nearly everything here offers some kind of hearty, no-nonsense kind of comfort. Highlights include the excellent pork and green chili stew; grilled quail with pepper jelly; and braised greens that bubble away by the coals all evening. Long communal tables set with flickering wax candles hold the center of the room while prized counter seats offer front row views of a kitchen in constant motion. In the far back, find a calm, intimate wine bar serving a lighter, more limited slice of the dinner menu.