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Its classic art nouveau styling makes this popular French brasserie de luxe infinitely more 7th arrondissement than Upper East Side. The efficient service is overseen by managers armed with authentic French accents and highly skilled in the art of flirting and flattery—the immaculately coiffured Orcéens may be a sophisticated bunch of customers but they expect a generous side order of Gallic charm to go with their classic French cuisine.

All the favorites are here, from escargots to lobster bisque, quenelle Lyonnaise to île flottante, and the kitchen prepares them with a healthy respect for tradition. There are also plenty of salads for those who’ve given up wondering how French women can eat this kind of food without ever going to the gym.