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This bright spot is brought to you by beverage director Yannick Benjamin, business partner George Gallego and Chef Oscar Lorenzzi. No wonder there's always a crowd in the intimate room, outfitted with exposed brick walls and an orderly kitchen in view—a rarity among other dining rooms—largely as it's been designed with accessibility in mind.
A concise, clever wine list is poured into Austrian crystal to accompany a range of sophisticated dishes that bear a Peruvian accent. Sample the ceviche classico revealing diced pieces of wild striped bass in a leche de tigre with cancha and slivered red onion. Well-executed seafood is a strength, as in crispy skin salmon and tender octopus with black chimichurri, but the likes of arroz con pato are also impressive.