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Mari, which means “roll” in Korean, is Hell’s Kitchen’s latest destination from the talented Sungchul Shim, who made a name for himself at his tasting counter (Kochi) just down the street. Those familiar with casual Japanese handroll counters are in for a surprise as Chef Shim reimagines the genre as a tasting menu, primed with top-notch ingredients and Korean flavors.
Glistening planks of Ora King salmon; tender strips of cured mackerel; and melting slabs of pork belly marinated with ssamjang are placed on beds of rice cradled in seaweed. Chefs work swiftly, moving from one roll to the next with nowhere to hide in this kitchen, flanked by counter seats on all sides. A bowl of warm bone broth with pork belly and noodles closes out the generous progression.