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At the start of service, the lights dim and servers pull back curtains to reveal the full kitchen team dressed in stark whites and standing at attention. This is just the beginning of a carefully choreographed performance by Chef Yuu Shimano, whose classic French training and Japanese heritage translates to beauty and boldness on the plate. The lengthy menu celebrates top-grade shellfish and proteins that waver between light and indulgent. Think smoked surf clam with celeriac or abalone risotto with nori powder. The signature duck and foie pastry is a treasure from another era, while a pre-dessert “mojito” is a sweet flash of modern-day brilliance. The warehouse-chic space is impressive in scale and carefully tended to by a quiet but attentive team.