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Murray Hill is no stranger to Korean food, but this prized, pig-loving barbecue destination is always packed. Inside, the bright room’s décor forgoes all frills to focus on regional specialties. Smiling servers are earnest and hospitable.

Begin with the usual but very exquisite banchan-like pickled turnips, fermented bean paste soup and specially aged house kimchi—funky, garlicky and a total pleasure. The kimchi pancake has a delightfully delicious crust and sear that recalls a slice of pizza. Yet what makes this place unique is that barbecue grill on each table, used for sizzling slices of flavorful duck with miso, garlic cloves and bean sprouts; spicy, tender bits of octopus; and sweet, fatty pork with soy sauce, red chili paste and scallions.