The grandson of farmers, Normandy-born David Toutain started out in the kitchen of Bernard Loiseau, before making a name for himself at a series of renowned establishments (including Arpège, Agapé Substance). In a modern, loft-style space, he has brought a showcase of culinary experimentation to a quiet street in a neighbourhood of government buildings. His technical prowess brings clarity to his dishes as he tirelessly taps into contemporary tastes (rather like his best friend, Alexandre Mazzia) to produce an ambitious cuisine d'auteur. He and his team now serve their creations in the form of "surprise" set menus comprising four to 10 courses. The desserts by pastry chef Émilie Gérardi deserve a special mention. The terrific wine list features a number of reasonably priced bottles.