In the heart of historic Poitiers, this 19C Jesuit chapel was for many years home to the region’s archives. Now its columns and arches have been transfigured thanks to a contemporary makeover, resulting in a lavish brasserie boasting a ceiling of cathedral-height proportions and an open-plan kitchen. The modern score by chef demonstrates a weakness for vegetables and there is an entirely vegetarian menu. The lunchtime menu is a steal – hence the crowds…