Chef Seth Stowaway puts his heart, soul and even his nickname (osito means "little bear") into this rustic, lodge-like spot where live fire cooking takes center stage. Warmth radiates from the central hearth and from the supremely hospitable staff. The multicourse tasting menu is served at an expansive communal table and changes with the seasons. Each iteration highlights a different theme, with past themes including the autobiographical "Growing Up" and a paean to classic old-world cooking techniques. The food is both elemental and elevated, with a subtle perfume of smoke wending through the various courses, seen in dishes like a lightly cooked king salmon with fennel and porcini, or a slow-cooked brisket brushed tableside with an intensely savory mussel BBQ sauce.