Freshly relocated, Shunji lives on as a notable Japanese counter manned by a chef whose experience runs deep. Inside, a sliding wood partition divides the space into two sections—both standard minimalist in décor, starring beige walls, a dark brown ceiling and that beloved blonde matte wood counter. While the two counters both offer an excellent omakase, the smaller counter run by LA sushi veteran, Chef Shunji Nakao, is the one to beat. Begin with a handful of bites, like sesame tofu or smoked King mackerel with dots of green onion and ginger sauce. Then move on to the nigiri, of which sea perch and sea eel are both exemplary. Finish with soup tailed by dessert. The quality of product and flavor combinations are anything but standard (as are the prices).