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What a ball of energy this Pierre Lambinon is! In this restaurant just a stone's throw from the Pont Neuf, he is making waves with his cooking. The meal begins with a flurry of amuse-bouches (a foretaste of the flavours that will suffuse the meal). The chef is at his most inspired when it comes to deftly preparing dishes based on herbs from the garden, fish and seafood and fine seasonal vegetables – heady combinations of seafood, grilled notes, and the bitter overtones of vegetables. For example, line-caught hake from Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Pyrenean trout gravelax, fava beans and wild garlic in a tonic pesto and citrus juice with concentrated honey. It's original, but he pulls it off! The superb space is predominantly white, with eye-catching paintings by contemporary artists on the walls. This place certainly has style.