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This Venice Beach trattoria is run by Chef Evan Funke, who studied pasta-making at the celebrated La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese. There may be other delicious and well-prepared menu items, but diners come here for the pastas, listed regionally and made in-house behind a glass-walled laboratorio. The proof lies in the rigatoni all’Amatriciana, a “del Centro” specialty of large, finely ridged tubes in a tomato sauce enriched by delicious guanciale and finished with Pecorino Romano. Wonderful pizzas hail from the wood-burning oven and their dessert crostata is made with equal care and talent.

The space is chic and homey with multiple dining sections that add to the overall sense of intimacy. Crowds can arrive early, making this something of a hot spot.