This “factory” is actually sleek, with cement columns, a modern bar and wide-open garage doors that enhance its lofty feel. However, the heart and soul of its kitchen is dedicated to traditional Northern Italian cuisine. This should come as no surprise, as Angelo Auriana and Matteo Ferdinandi are turning heads with their quickly expanding empire. Devotion to regionally specific flavors is clear in every bite, such as the focaccina calda di Recco al formaggio, layering shatteringly crisp dough between Crescenza cheese, tomato sauce and capers. Everything in the mandilli di seta is delightful, from the thick sheets of “handkerchief” pasta to the almond-basil pesto. Desserts, including a Saracena espresso-soaked buckwheat tiramisu cake with toffee crunch, are ambitious.
- De inspecteurs van de MICHELIN Gids