Saaremaa is Estonia's largest island, but it does not owe its renown exclusively to this distinction. Its landscape is expansive and unspoilt, dotted with windmills redolent of bygone days. There is also a remarkable natural phenomenon in the form of the huge crater at Kaali, produced by a meteor impact thousands of years ago. Finally, there is of course Kuressaare, the island's main town, an essential visit prior to heading for a swim off the Sõrve Peninsula.