Tinos, a Mecca for Marian devotion and a sort of Orthodox Lourdes, is not an island like the others; what is more, it will delight those interested in religious architecture, thanks to its 750 churches and chapels. Others should rest assured, pilgrimage-related activity is confined to certain spots. Leave the port and head inland or along the coast to see some of the loveliest villages in the Cyclades, where pastoral activity and beaches minus the crowds still survive.