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This stylish operation runs as smooth as silk, but more importantly, it serves up an indulgent tasting that highlights excellent ingredients with skill and flair. The menu draws upon both tradition and invention, as in a dish of butter-poached lobster with dashi. Though the cooking does flaunt luxury ingredients with a certain abandon, it's the more understated elements that most impress, like the soy-marinated tuna sashimi with a silky, meaty texture, dotted with freshly grated wasabi; or a nigiri of buttery hamachi belly, lifted with yuzu zest.
Next door, livelier sibling Sushi Sato serves more affordable sushi and sashimi, assorted small plates, as well as a beverage program that highlights fine Japanese whisky.