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Chef Kosuke Tada’s culinary career began in Japan, but French cuisine is where he elected to earn his stripes, and diners at this casual neighborhood bistro are all the luckier for it. The name translates to “simmered,” which might serve as a metaphor for the careful yet uncomplicated style of the cooking, seen in a seasonal prix fixe menu that endeavors to avoid obscuring the quality of excellent locally sourced ingredients. In line with Chef Tada’s low intervention approach, the beverage program is dedicated to food-friendly natural wines, which feels especially fitting, given that the space’s relaxed wine bar aesthetic would not be at all out of place in Paris—though don’t expect even a whiff of hauteur. A winning combination, sans doute.